Art Metalwork Chapter 15
RAISING, FLUTING, PANELING, NECKING IN
The problem of asking the small bowl described in Chapt 14 leads
naturally to the problem of the nut-bowl, which is the same in
principle, using the same tools and methods, but requires a larger
disk of metal. It also opens up a splendid opportunity to illustrate
and use a characteristic and typical method of decoration for
sheet metal forms, namely, that of fluting, sometimes called
shaping or modeling.
The first bowl in Fig. 86

shows the simplest and easiest form
of fluting, and it will be used for the purpose of describing
the process. For a nut bowl a circular piece of 18-gage flat copper
or brass is cut out from 7" to 10" in diameter. It is
then "raised"
to shape by the method described for the small bowl.
FLUTING.
After the bowl has been raised to a form that is true and even
we are ready for the process of fluting, the first step of which
is to divide the bowl into 5, 6, or 7 parts by drawing vertical
pencil
lines down the sides where the flutes are to come. The above
number of divisions is suggested because it is one of the well-known
rules of design that it is usually best to divide such forms
into 5, 6, or 7 divisions.
The next step is to make a fluting block,—a piece of some
hard wood, preferably maple, about 12" long x 2" wide
x 1 1/2" thick, with the end shaped into a flute like that
which is to be produced on the bowl, as shown in Fig. 87 The shaping
of the wood may be done with a wood rasp and coarse file. Do not
try to make the end of the fluting block exactly the shape and
size of the flute in the bowl, but make it a little smaller in
size and curvature. This is so that you can move the bowl around
more freely when you are doing the actual fluting.
Fasten the fluting block upright in the vise with the modeled end
up ; place the bowl over the end of the fluting block with the
vertical pencil line exactly over the flute in the block, and beat
the metal down into the flute with the neck hammer, No. 7293
as shown in Fig. 87. This will require considerable care and some
practice to get a smooth uniform flute. If the metal gets very
stiff and hard soften it by ''annealing'' as described before.
When the bowl and the fluting is uniform and true it is ready for
the cleaning and "planishing" process.
It will be found that the fluting process has a tendency to draw
the top of the bowl in and make it smaller in diameter. Advantage
may be taken of this fact to vary the design and get a sharp curve
at the edge of the bowl that makes it more interesting.
This tendency of the fluting process to draw in the edge is something
to be taken advantage of to produce a better and more characteristic
bowl, and should not be taken as a restriction to hold us to a
certain form, as sheet metal in the hands of a competent craftsman
is manipulated with a freedom and ease which is astonishing in
many respects. As an illustration of this, the second bowl, Fig.
86, was raised and fluted in the same way as the first, but the
edge was hammered out, giving the section of the bowl a petal like
shape.
CONVEX FLUTING
The flutes described above are concave flutes. There is also
the convex flute, shown in the bowls in Fig. 88. This type of
flute is made by placing a piece of iron or hard wood, filed
to the approximate shape of the flute wanted, in the vise and
placing the vertical pencil line drawn on the side of the bowl
exactly over the fluting block, and then beating the metal down
alternately on each side of the block with the neck hammer, as
shown in Fig. 87.
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