Art Metalwork Chapter 11

ANNEALING, RIVETING, SEAMING

We have now reached the end of the first distinct division in the series of problems which we have been following. Up to this point the problems have been what we might call flat-work and straight bending problems; that is, they have been flat pieces of metal cut to shape with a design etched or saw-pierced on them, and lightly beaten into form oil a block of wood with tile ball-pein hammer, such as the watch-fob, paper-knife, etc. Next came the straight bending problems, such as the blotter, book-end, hinge, napkin-ring, etc.
The problems in the division which we. are now beginning will teach in a simple progressive manner the construction of objects by seaming and riveting, and the process of raising a form or shape from flat metal by hammering. Annealing will also be involved.

Fig. 37. New tools required.

The new tools necessary, Fig. 37, are as follows :
Iron vise with jaws 31/2" wide, cost about $3.80
No. 7293 neck hammer, cost about  $1.25
Tinsmith's blow-horn stake, weight 1.4 pounds  $3.50
The match-box holder, Figs. 38 and 40,

is a problem that involves the processes of bending, riveting, and raising. The base is raised or beaten into shape with the neck hammer, the holder is bent into form over a wooden block and riveted to the base. The detailed method of making the match-holder is as follows : Take a small match-box and measure the width, length, and thickness: the box in the photograph is 1 I/2" wide, 2 1/4" long, and 3/4 " thick. A piece of copper is cut out that will cover the two sides and one end. For a box of the above dimensions the piece of copper is 5 1/4" long and 1 1/2" wide. If a design is to be etched on the sides, it is easier to do it at this time, while the metal is flat.
Fasten in the vise a piece of wood that, is the same thickness as the match-box, and with the hammer and mallet bend the copper over the wood and into shape, so that the box fits rather tight. Next cut a strip of copper 3 1/4" long and 1/2" wide and bend it with the pliers into shape as shown in the drawing, Fig. 39.

This is to slip inside of the box cover and raise the box so that the matches can be easily removed. To make the base, cut a rectangular piece of copper 4 1/2" long and 3 1/2" wide, 18-gage thick; mark in the middle the size of the raised part upon which the box-holder is to be riveted, and hammer it into shape with the neck hammer on a block of wood held in the vise. Care must be taken to strike the copper just off the edge of the block of wood, as shown in No. 1, Fig. 39, then the metal will give and bend, as shown in No. 2.  After the metal has been hammered and raised partly into shape it will get hard and stifF, and it will be necessary to "anneal" it.  This may be done over the Bunsen burner or over a gas range, in a furnace —in fact, in any place where there is heat enough to get it red-hot. After it has been heated to a dull red beat it is plunged into water while hot, or laid aside to cool, after which it will be found to be soft and pliable again. It makes no difference which method is used to cool the metal, as it is the heating that makes it soft.
We may now continue hammering and raising it into shape, the progressive steps of the raising being shown as A. B, C, D,Fig. 39.   To bend up the edge, as shown in D, Hammer with the flat side of the ball-pein hammer over the edge of the block of wood. To finish the base, hammer with the neck hammer in regular even strokes on the No. 157 lapping-stake.

RIVETING

We now have three pieces of copper that are shaped and hammered readv to be riveted together. The rivets may be of copper tacks cut off to the required length. Drill a hole the diameter of the tack in each end of the small piece that slips inside the box-cover, and placing that in its proper position inside the piece that holds the match-box, mark and drill the holes. Next place the box-holder in its proper position on the base, mark and drill the holes in the base. We now have in each of the three pieces two holes which will all correspond when in position. Care must be taken to have the head of the rivet rest on something solid ; in this particular case, the head of a large nail held in the vise will do. Let the point of the rivet come on the under side of the base and be careful to hammer the rivet as shown in the drawing, Fig. 39.   Color and finish in any of the previously described methods.

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